How to Tell if a Rolex is Real: Your In-Depth Guide

You had in your possession a Rolex or so you believed, or in case you are one of them that got a knock off. Now what? Now, it is time to look at the details of recognizing a fake Rolex. Here are some tricks you may not know much about, but they will definitely give you that professional feel.

The Tiny Crown You Can’t See

Did this piece of information surprise you? It seems there is a hidden crown on your Rolex. It’s true! At Six o’clock, just between the lugs, there is a very small crown engraved. Here is the catch, you cannot look at it with your eyes wide open.

You may require a loupe – or a magnifying glass with the best possible quality, if there is such a thing. If an individual cannot find the required item even in the extensive online catalog, then this could be a sign to discourage you.

The Case Back Mystery

Do this and this only, first lets look at this – real Rolex watches do not have branded or engraved case backs or engravable tops that are see through. Pop quiz: does a see-through back or some fancy engraving give it away? Back there, Rolex plain and unbroken.

The Hologram Sticker Game

All authentic Rolex are marked with an individual hologram sticker located at the case back if the Rolex is a brand new one. On the other hand, the following is the most important fact – Rolex ceased to apply these stickers since the fourth quarter of the year 2007.

Now to further it if your watch was made after that and has a hologram sticker then something is not correct. And if it does have one, make sure it is not a flat sticker on the machine to suggest it has one. Real holograms in comparison to those in the picture above transform when seen from different angles.

The Laser Etched Crystal

Starting from 2002, Rolex began laser etching their crystals. You’ll find a tiny Rolex crown etched at the 6 o’clock position. It’s super small, about 1/8th of an inch. You might need that loupe again to spot it. No etching on a post-2002 model? That’s not good news.

The Waterproof Test

Here’s a fun one – the condensation test. Put a drop of water on the crystal of your watch. If it’s real, the water should bead up and roll off easily. If it spreads out, you might have a fake on your hands. But don’t dunk your watch in water for this test, okay? We’re not trying to ruin it here.

The Micro-Etched Crystal

Rolex upped their game in 2005. They started micro-etching the rehaut (that’s the inner rim of the dial) with serial numbers. These are incredibly tiny and precise. If you can easily read this etching without magnification, it’s probably not legit. Real Rolex etching is so small, it’s hard to see clearly even with a loupe.

The Magnetic Attraction

Most fake Rolex watches use cheap metals that are magnetic. Real ones aren’t. Get a small magnet and hold it close to your watch. If it sticks, you’ve probably got a counterfeit on your hands. But be careful not to scratch the watch while you’re playing magnet detective.

The Cyclops Quirk

You know that little magnifying lens over the date? Rolex calls it the Cyclops. Here’s something cool – on a real Rolex, the Cyclops is filled with fluid. This gives it that extra magnification power. Fakes often skip this detail. So if your date doesn’t look significantly magnified, you might want to dig deeper.

The Millisecond Marker

This one is more for the hardcore watch enthusiasts. However, on certain models like the Daytona there will be a small arrow situated at the 6 on the watch. This is used in timing up to 1/8 of a second.

Many impostors mess up locating this element where it should be or, worse, completely omit it. Yes, it is merely a small detail, but it could reveal a lot of things, should one bother to pay attention.

The Platinum Touch

If you own a Day-Date model also referred to as the ‘President’ here is a neat little trick. There should be a platinum insert of the smallest size at day window at 12 o’clock. You cannot easily impersonate this; it is almost impossible to do so. To check this one you might have to bring it to an expert but it’s a definite way of identifying a real President.

The Lume Test

For the luminous material, Rolex employs one that is identified as Chromalight. It illuminates blue to distinguish it from other watches that have the ability to light up green. Many times, the luminescent pearl of a genuine Rolex is green, and if it is blue, or unevenly applied and does not last long, they are counterfeit watches.

The Subdial Depth

On chronograph models like the Daytona, check out the subdials. They should be slightly recessed, not flat with the main dial. This gives the watch face depth and is hard to replicate in fakes. Run your finger over the dial (carefully!) – you should feel those subdials dip down a bit.

The Helium Escape Valve

If you’ve got a Sea-Dweller, look for the helium escape valve. It’s a little bump on the side of the case at 9 o’clock. This valve lets helium escape during decompression for deep sea divers. It’s a complex piece of engineering that fakes often get wrong or leave out entirely.

The Rolex Font

Rolex uses a specific font for their text, and they’re really picky about it. Look closely at the letters. Are they crisp and clean? Do they have a slight serif? Fakes often get the font wrong, using something that’s close but not quite right. It’s subtle, but once you know what to look for, it’s a dead giveaway.

The Bracelet Flex

Here’s a hands-on test for you. Hold the watch by the bracelet and let it dangle. A real Rolex bracelet will hold its shape, while a fake might sag or deform. The links should also feel solid and well-connected, not loose or rattly.

The Crown Guards

Regarding models that have crown guards those little knobs that protect the wound crown look at their shape. Rolex also has a design given to every model that is produced by the company.

For instance, while the crown guards of the Submariner models are sharp; those of the GMT-Master II models are rounded. These aspects are normally the first to be distorted by fakes.

The Rehaut Engraving Alignment

Now you recall the talk on micro-etching we had a while back? Here is another box to tick. The rehaut should overlay the hours indexes and the engraving on it should match with them in the best way possible.

If it is off by any value, even a small one then that is a problem. Marika was utterly precise at her role at Rolex and they would not overlook such an issue as misaligned engraving.

The Bracelet Clasp Code

Turn the watch over and check at the backside where there is a clasp. There will be a code to be stamped there. This code informs you the date when the bracelet was created. Primer digits should correlate with the age of the watch as a whole. This is not normal; maybe you are wearing a brand new watch yet the clasp code that is running is from days when you were perhaps in junior high.

Well that, in a nutshell is the detailed look into the Rolex authentication process! These tips will help you to know the real thing, the best of the best, as you are now sufficiently armed. Just bear in mind that no man is infallible and that should you find yourself in a fix, an expert is your best bet. Happy watch hunting!