What are the Jewels in a watch for?

jewels in a watch

In the watchmaking world, jewels play a vital role in improving the accuracy and longevity of watches, especially mechanical watches. These jewels, often made of rubies or artificial sapphires, are used to reduce friction between the moving parts of the watch. In this article, we will review the role and importance of Jewels in a watch.

Is 17 Jewels Better Than 21 Jewels?

If you’re wearing a watch right now, you’re carrying at least 17 jewels. In the design of many mechanical watches, 17 jewels are used, and this number is enough to make a simple mechanism. These jewels are located in key components such as the clock wheel, gear shafts and timing system. If your watch has other additional mechanisms, such as a calendar, chronometer, or other more complex features, then it carries more than 17 jewels (usually 21 jewels) inside. Additional Jewels in a watch are used  not only for decoration, but also for better performance in more complex mechanisms. For example, chronograph watches or watches with multiple pointers need more jewels in their design to further reduce friction and increase the accuracy of the mechanism.

The number of Jewels in a watch is not the reason for its better performance. In other words, 21-jewel watches do not necessarily perform better than 17-jewel watches; Rather, the number of jewels is determined solely based on the design of the watch and the friction in their engine. For the casual wearer, 17-jewel watches may be sufficient, while for more sophisticated watch enthusiasts, 21-jewel watches may perform better.

What Is The Use of  Jewels In a Watch?

Jewels in watches play a vital role in reducing friction between moving parts. Without jewelry, metals will erode over time, leading to reduced accuracy and increased need for repairs. Watches with more complex mechanisms require more jewels to minimize friction and increase accuracy. These jewels are usually placed in key points such as timing control systems, central gears and other critical points. Also, the use of jewelry makes the watch require less maintenance over time, because it prevents mechanical parts from wearing out.

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17 jewels watches

Value of Jewels In Watches

Many mechanical watch enthusiasts may believe that the more Jewels in a watch, the higher its value. The fact is that the jewels inside each watch have more technical value and their main role is to improve the performance and increase the life of the watch. Due to their structure and high hardness, these jewels reduce the friction between moving parts, which directly affects the accuracy of the watch. Therefore, the high number of jewels used in the watch engine is not necessarily the main element in determining its price.

On the other hand, the decorative jewels used in the body of watches have aesthetic value but do not affect the inner workings of the watch. Therefore, when evaluating a watch, it should be noted that the number of jewels alone is not enough to measure quality, but the way these jewels are used in the mechanism is more important. Expert watchmakers use these jewels intelligently to optimize the performance and technical aspects of their product.

How Many Jewels is Rolex?

As one of the most prestigious watch brands in the world, Rolex uses a large number of Jewels in a watch to make its watches to ensure high precision and performance. Depending on the model and the complexity of the mechanism, Rolexes use 31 to 44 jewels in their internal structure. For example, the famous Datejust models, including the popular Rolex women watches in Dubai, often have 31 jewels, which is enough for basic operation and high precision in these watches.

More complex Rolex models such as the Daytona, which have functions such as a chronograph, usually require more jewels to reduce friction between the complex parts of the watch’s movement. More jewels in these watches make the watch run more smoothly and accurately, especially when there are more moving parts in the mechanism.

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21 jewels watches

How Many Jewels Does a Patek Philippe Watch Have?

Patek Philippe watches are known as one of the most luxurious watch brands in the world. Due to the precision and mechanical complexity of these watches, designers usually use a large number of jewels. Between 29 and 40 jewels are used in different models of this brand. Complex models equipped with features such as perpetual calendars or precision chronographs require more jewels to maintain optimal performance. For those looking for a watch with perfect performance and high durability, the number of jewels can be one of the important criteria in choosing Patek Philippe watches in Dubai. Also, the use of jewelry in these watches shows the high level of skill and expertise of the watchmakers of this brand.

What Type of Jewels Do Watchmakers Use?

Traditionally, watchmakers have used two main types of gemstones in their watches: sapphires and synthetic sapphires. One of the reasons for choosing these materials is their high hardness, which allows moving parts to slide easily on them without being eroded. Synthetic sapphire is the first choice of most watchmakers due to its lower price and economical production.

In terms of performance, ruby ​​and sapphire jewelry are not much different from each other and both are equally hard and resistant, but their difference is in color and specific applications. Red rubies are mostly used in the internal and mechanical parts of the watch, while sapphires are used in making the protective glass of the dial in addition to being used in the mechanism. The choice between these two types of jewelry depends on the design of the watch and the type of mechanism. According to the complexity and needs of the watch mechanism, watchmakers determine the number and type of jewels required. Watchmakers may use the combination of both types of jewels in different places on the watch to both increase mechanical accuracy and durability and maintain the visual beauty of the watch.